Sunday, 21 February - Coimbra

This morning it was off to Coimbra, also an ancient capital of Portugal and the foremost University town of Portugal. The University was founded in 1270, the oldest in Portugal and one the oldest in the EU. When the capital was moved in the 1500s, the university inherited the Royal Palace. Of course, being the Royal Palace and fortress it was located on the top of the mountain. We climbed to the top (see previous entries and to why Europeans are thin) and visited the various museums and faculties including the original library which is quite spectacular and holds 300,000 books prior to the 18^th century. The walls are 2.1 metres thick, with oak bookcases that discourage insects and teak doors and wall panels to keep the humidity at 60%. They also have bats right in the library which come out at night and eat any other insects. To preserve the tables from bat droppings, they cover them with leather towels at night. Of course, the towels and floors have to be cleaned every morning before opening. Fascinating Facts!

Tonight we had a wonderful meal at an Italian Restaurant near our hotel.

Sent from Coimbra, 06, Portugal

Saturday, 20 February - Guiamares & Braga

Beautiful sunny day and at the crack of dawn, after breakfast, 10 am, we took off for Guiamares the old capital of Portugal. We strolled around the medieval town centre, saw the duke's palace, the cathedral as well as other historic buildings. After a scenic lunch on the old town square we took the cable car up the mountain to yet another chapel and spectacular scenic views over the city and valley.

We then proceeded to Braga where we visited the shrine of Bom Jesus. This is a mountain top shrine that is reached by 2 km of steps that zig-zag up the mountain with the 14 stations of the cross on the way up. Normally you would make your way up the mountain on your knees. However, we cheated and took the funicular to the top where there were spectacular views over the countryside and a beautiful church. We then walked down, passing the statues of Faith, Hope and Charity, then the five fountains representing the five senses – each on its own staircase. As you went down there was a fountain at each level of the staircase. It was very beautiful and moving.

Then it was back to the Formula 1 track and back to Porto! After dining in situ, we went out for cappuccino and croissants at the Via Santa Catarina.

Friday, 19 February - Porto

Unfortunately we were unable to meet-up with the Borgfjords et al as the car we have (an Opel) although bigger than our Fiat, has a smaller boot and we did not want to park anywhere and leave bags exposed. We bought a "Hop-on, Hop-off" bus tour ticket and spent the day exploring the city.

Sent from Porto, 13, Portugal

Thursday, 18 February - Porto

Onto Porto the second largest city in Portugal. Guinevere took us right to our hotel in the centre of the city – did I mention there is no flat land in Portugal? Immediately again we went on part of a walking tour being able to take in quite a bit of the old town and port in the 5 hours or so we were out. The highlight was the Igreja (Church) of Sao Francisco. The port area overlooks the town of Gaia where all the port (wine) warehouses are. We had our scenic cappuccino at an outdoor restaurant on the quayside. There are 3 major bridges which are quite high and architectural wonders, one is made of steel which was left over from the construction of the Eiffel Tour in France and designed by an associate of Eiffel!

Sent from Porto, 13, Portugal

Wednesday, 17 February - Tomar

We switched cars for the automatic and took off north for Tomar. I had quite forgotten that the autoestrada is actually a skyway crossing the valleys between mountains at an elevation of at least 30 metres. Spectacular scenery at 160 km/h. I should explain that there is no travelling in the the passing lanes! The way it is adhered to makes one believe it a hanging offence. So, the further north you go leaving the calming influence of the British tourists in the Algarve, the more it seems like you are in the middle of a Formula 1 race, with speeds starting at 140 km and cars moving in and out within less than a half metre! Quite uncharacteristically for us, we were in the "slow" lane, not doing any passing.

We got into Tomar just after lunch, despite Guinevere (our GPS) taking us over mountains and down country roads which prompted Gail to declare that henceforth, she was going to share navigational responsibilities. We checked into our hotel which is on an island in the centre of the city and immediately went to the castle of the Knights Templar. It has served the Order of Christ after the Knights Templar were is abolished as well as several other religious orders and was in use until 1992. No luxury in any century!

Sent from Porto, 13, Portugal

Tuesday, 16 February - Albufeira

Our last day in the Algarve and the weather is great. We took the scenic route (something we usually avoid – preferring the autoestradas) into the resort town of Albufeira. We spent several pleasant hours strolling the streets and shops, exploring the beach area and then had a long leisurely lunch on the terrace overlooking the Atlantic and the beaches. A mediocre pizza with a million dollar view – and a €5 bottle of wine. On the way back, as Zane would say, we went shopping for feminine products – Gail wanted to look for shoes at Mondo do Sapatos (Shoe World). Turns out that I got myself a pair, Gail was unsuccessful. That evening we had our farewell dinner of Sole and Sea Bass at the Atlantico Restaurant overlooking the beach with spotlights on the pounding surf and the rocks.

Monday, 15 February - Faro and almost Loulé

We drove to Faro which is the capital of the Algarve and did some sightseeing. After which we drove up to Loulé to see the Carnaval. Unfortunately it was pouring rain by this time and we decided to cut our loses and return to Alvor. Back in Alvor the sun was shining, so we went for a very late lunch 1430h to the Albar.

Sunday, 14 February - Valentine's Day

Valentine's Day, and had breakfast with Champagne! Later we went into Priai da Rocha and walked along the beach, stopping for a cappuccino at a beach restaurant. On the way back, needing a few more groceries, and because I was having withdrawal symptoms, we stopped into a shopping centre. Gail went grocery shopping while I went into Canadian Tire – Roady, the Portuguese equivalent. Spent the afternoon reading and napping as it started to rail again. Hopefully it will be blue skies from now on!

Saturday, 13 February - Lagos Revisited

A beautiful sunny day! We went back into Lagos to do more site-seeing. We saw the church and the museum and had sardines (you get six), which are about 20 centimetres long – not what we get in a can, for lunch. They are fried and come with boiled potatoes and three other veggies. We then drove out to the Ponta da Piedade to see the cliffs and grottos. Of course we had to climb these!

Friday, 12 February - Priai da Rocha

Thursday night we went back to the Taberna do Guedes for dinner.

It was raining this morning, so we decided to go into Priai da Rocha to see if we could make arrangements for our other car rather than waste time on Wednesday morning. Of course we parked at the first available spot and walked in the heaviest rain to the car hire. The guy at the car hire confirmed our reservations but said it would be just a waste of time and too confusing to have it half done. So we trudged off back to the car in the still pouring rain. Later we went for drinks with Margot and Felix, a couple from Orleans, Ontario for drinks to the Atlantico, a restaurant on the beach.

Sent from Portimao, 08, Portugal

Thursday, 11 February - Monchique

This morning it was off to Monchique, a pretty little town in the mountains where you can  go to get away from the heat of the shore!  Those 18 to 20'C temperatures are unbearable (;-) at this time of year!.  We explored the town and had the local specialty, which is chicken piri piri.  Which, if you remember your Greek, pyros is fire.  Piri piri sauce is sold and advertised locally as Algarvean Viagra! 

Gail wanted to mention that there are a lot of dogs around.  There do not seem to be any leash laws, but the dogs are obviously well fed and friendly.  When we parked in Monchique, one wanted to get into the back seat when Gail was getting her stuff out.  Later, we went up to Foia, which is literally the top of the mountain at 920 m.  Whereas the temperature was about 15'C in Monchique, it was 8'C at the top of the mountain, and I'm guessing with the windchill, zero or less.  From here, you can not only look south and see the coastline, but look east to Spain and northwest to Lisboa.  Tonight we are going out for dinner, more of that later.
Sent from Portimao, 08, Portugal

Wednesday, 10 February - a dark and stormy day

It was a dark and stormy day as Snoopy would say. We stayed in, did laundry, and read in the morning.  Later we walked to the beach and followed it up the estuary, returning through town and stopping into the Irish Inn. for a not-so-scenic beer and met some people, from of all places Ireland!.  For dinner, we made chili in the apartment, read some more and watched the BBC news channel.   You can't make up this type of excitement!

Borgfjord's, Dalman's et al.  Bring your costumes!  It is carnaval here!  Sort of a cross between  carnaval and Halloween from what we understand.  It starts on Valentine's day and goes to the 16th.  Gail has been shopping for her costume.  Right now it's a dead heat between the naughty nurse and the sexy vampire!  Yea, right!

Bring a Lacrosse stick!  It helps to get oranges off the orange trees and makes your get away quicker!

Sent from Portimao, 08, Portugal

Tuesday, 9 February - Silves

This morning it was off to Silves (Silvesh), the old Moorish capital Xelb (Shelb) which is located on top of a mountain. The day started off with a bit of rain as we drove up the slight incline of 89 degrees. I was feeling apprehensive as the streets narrowed to the point where we were about to turn our mirrors in. When it seemed that it couldn't get worse, the car started slipping back on the wet cobblestones. My mind was racing – should I floor it and hit the wall ahead or just let it roll back into the wall behind? Which was the lesser of two evils? Where would the damage be the least? Would there be damage to the walls? Or just to the car? Perhaps if it went backward, it would be cheaper to fix the boot rather than the front of the car. Kiss the €900 deposit goodbye! Twenty metres on up and around the wall, there were a few parking spaces in front of a small café up the hill and off to the right where a car was pulling out. Gail said to try for it. What was the worse that could happen? They would be short a couple of sidewalk tables and a half dozen or so chairs. I floored the gas, popped the clutch lurched forward, cranked the wheel and went sliding into the space missing the other cars and coming to rest against the

kerb (English for curb). At that point, we were only half way to our destination. We would have to back out, go up the hill for about 10 m more and then do another right turn. Right then we were safe – relatively. And help was ahead – the church. Unfortunately it was closed, so I had to do a quick prayer of thanks right there and again another to St Christopher when we had to leave. The castle had a breathtaking panorama which was enhanced by my heart palpitations. They have a very interesting Archaeological museum with artifacts dating back to the Phoenician period. The castle itself has quite a complex well and cistern system which allowed it to be defended without being forced out for lack of water. At the end of our explorations, it was back to the car. Gail stood at the top of the hill to keep away the tourists who wander about like sheep. I guess it was a good idea, because that way we did not have to fill out any forms. I figured tourists would not do the car as much damage as stone walls. Anyway, I made it up the hill, turned and got to a flat area less than 100 m away. Down hill from there, we stopped in the new town, picnicked and then picked up a couple more things to make dinner at the apartment.

Monday, 8 February - Lagos

Today we were in Lagos, which is only about 20km from Alvor. The town went through all the usual conquerers and traders from the Phoenicians, Romans, Germanic Tribes, Moors, etc. We toured the harbour area and the fortifications. Unfortunately, in our reading we did not focus on the fact that all the museums and churches were closed on Monday. There is one day when the towns are closed and that could be Monday, Tuesday or Wednesday. We did find a nice little out of the way café and each had a ham and cheese croissant with coffee for only €2! On the way back, we went to the large supermarket and picked up some groceries. Driving is a bit of a pain with both Gail and

Guinevere telling me where to go! Who is Guinevere? Guinevere is our Garmin GPS. In Canada, our Magellan GPS is called Maggie, so we decided, because of the English accent, to name our Garmin Guinevere. For dinner we went to the Capacho where I had pork with clams and Gail had Fish Algarvean which was a filet of sole lightly breaded with Almonds. Both were delicious. We planned to have wine, so we walked into town as the maximum blood alcohol level is 0.05 and is strictly enforced. It was raining pretty hard all the way back!

Sunday, 7 February - Walking to Espana/Espahna

Gail thought that we should take it easy today. My thoughts immediately turned to sitting on the balcony, eating peanuts, drinking rum & coke and reading a book. Gail, however meant, hiking into town and then walking along the beach to Spain, returning and buying some wine for dinner. I don't know what I'm going to do about her penchant for expensive wine. I keep telling her that one can buy a perfectly good wine for under €2, but no, she has to go wild a buy a bottle for €2.40!
Sent from Portimao, 08, Portugal

Saturday, 6 February - Tavira, Olhao and Estoi

Today it is off to Tavira, Olhao and Estoi, about a 100 km away. The first thing you notice when you hit the A22 is the number of cars poking along at 100 kph. They have obviously let the [British] tourists off the plane and they are trying to find which side of the road to drive on. Thankfully they are in the right hand lane, and not comfortable with the local 150 – 160 kph, I settle into a [I think] respectable 140 kph. Tavira is famous for it's Roman bridge with 7 arches, the square roofs on all it's buildings and the church, the Igreja de Misericordia with it tiled interior. We walked about the market and saw 50 – 60 Harleys as the Algarve Harley Club rode in. Not really frightening as these all look like retirees. Olhao is famous as 17 of its fishermen sailed without charts to Brazil in 1808, to let the exiled King know that Napolean had been driven from Portugal. It also has a lively market on the waterfront where we strolled. Then it was off to Estoi, which is famous for its Roman ruins (which we were unable to see because they were closed off) and the Palacio which has now become a Pousada or government run inn. We were able to tour the palace/inn and what can I say except that it is palatial and the grounds are fantastic. Some of the pathways are compacted sand. I would like to see how they stand up to the elements! Back in Alvor we had fish and chips for dinner at the Albar, one of our favourite restaurants from at last trip here.

Friday, 5 February - Sao Vincente, Sagres and Vila do Bispo

Today we took a trip to the most westerly tip of Portugal, S. Vincente, Sagres and Vila do Bispo. The cliffs are quite spectacular and this is where Prince Henry established the Navigation School, an excellent location – protected coves for the ships and nothing around to distract the students. Of course today, the area is crawling with tourists! We had a picnic and made our way back leisurely to Alvor.
Sent from Portimao, 08, Portugal

Driving Miss Gail

I should have mentioned that it was good to drive in Ottawa, just to sharpen the wits again and get used to the speed. It still does not get you quite used to the speeds here 150km+, not to mention the stick shift. Did I mention the area is quite hilly? Mountainous even! Because we have a standard for the first two weeks, Gail is not driving. We figured we could get away with it as we are doing short day trips. The last week we switch for an automatic and I look forward to being chauffeured by Gail!

No Photos

Sorry, this computer will not let me upload photos.

Thursday, 4 February - Alvor

Today we went into Praia da Rocha (beach of the rock), where we took a long walk on the beach, explored the castle and had lunch. The attached photo is for Frank; I know he was concerned that there would not be any recycling bins on the beach. They may be a bit hard to see, but there are 3 blue bins. Later we drove into Portimao, did our tourist thing and headed back to the condo to meet with the JM Vacations travel rep. Then it was off to dinner at the Taverna do Guedes (pronounced Gedoosh) for a great fish cataplana. For those that may be bored or have to get hold of us, our mobile no. in Portugal is 351 91 004 6542,

Faro

The flight to Portugal went quite smoothly. The usual Air Transat, crowded, mediocre food (at least there was food this time) and a muffin made of 12 different sugars which went uneaten - thank goodness we were prepared! We picked up our car, hit take-me-home on the [preprogrammed at home] GPS and headed for the Luna Alvor Village, our apartment hotel. Upon checking-in we found that breakfast was included, which was a nice little bonus. We then immediately went for a walk. It's amazing how good it felt to be walking after being cooped up in the aircraft. After the bitter cold of Ottawa (okay at least for us) it is astounding how good 16'C felt! There is a big difference in 16'C in Canada in the spring or autumn when the ice is forming or melting, to where it rarely goes below 8'C. We then went into town (Alvor), did some shopping, went back to our condo, made dinner and were in bed by 2000h.

Ottawa

The weather clearing, we finally got to Ottawa on Saturday, where we stayed with Mark and Allison and all went out to dinner. Sunday, we started the day having brunch with Diane & Jim and Don and Betty. We then visited with Stephen, Stefanie and Artem, after which we all went to Frank and Joanne's for dinner. Monday we visited with Artem and of course the other two that live there. Tuesday, before leaving was spent doing house repairs for Mark. Finally, we were off to Toronto and then to Portugal.